Ummed Paan Palace

Ummed Paan Palace is located in the middle of Dhan Mandi. It’s not really a palace, just a small corner shop with a lot of brass containers and fresh green leaves. I start the day by washing the betel leaves and laying them out on wet cloths to keep them cool. The smell of gulkand and lime is always in the air here. We have all the different jars lined up on the counter—betel nuts, spices, and the sweet syrups. Most people come by after their lunch or dinner just to talk for a few minutes while I fold the leaves. It’s a social place. You hear all the news about the market and who is buying what grain today. I have a small mirror on the wall and a radio that usually plays old songs. The counter is stained from years of mixing the ingredients, but that’s just how it is. Sometimes we get busy in the evenings when the weather cools down and families go for a walk. I’ve lived in this neighborhood my whole life, so I know almost everyone who stops by. We don't have a menu or anything, people just tell me how they like it, more lime or extra sweet. It’s a simple routine of folding and serving. The fans keep the leaves fresh but it still gets quite warm in the afternoons. When the market shuts, we clean up the counter and head home.